From ice slides to polar plunges, cable cars to chairlifts, train journeys to snowmobile safaris, our travel specialists are all in when it comes to gaining first-hand knowledge of our holidays. There certainly was no holiday back Freya and Megan on a recent trip to Scandinavia combining Tromso in Northern Norway with Abisko and the Icehotel in Swedish Lapland.
These three destinations are among our best selling for winter. Each is an outstanding location for witnessing the northern lights. And each offers stand-alone reasons to travel to Scandinavia’s north. But join them together in one trip and you have something very special as Freya and Megan reveal below.
What was your impression of Tromso, nicknamed the ‘Paris of the North’?
Megan: Tromso was lovely! I have never been to Paris so I’m not sure how it compares, but I loved that you could walk everywhere and there were cute shops, cafes, restaurants and museums all situated very close to the harbour. Being able to walk along the harbourside and look at all the fishing boats, and across to the mountains was stunning! It has a very friendly vibe, and I ate the best filled baguette of my entire life there (so maybe it is the Paris of the North!).
Freya: I really liked Tromso as a city, it has a small compact feel to it but with plenty going on and a good mix of restaurants and cafés to choose from that are often filled with locals, not just tourists! When visiting a country, it’s always interesting to see the life of locals and learn more about an area. Particularly on winter breaks, it’s easy to bypass cities and head straight to a remote resort, but spending time in Tromso offered a glimpse into how people live in these far north regions.
The surroundings make the city really stand out, everywhere you look is a snowy mountain, then when you look across the harbour you see the unique Arctic Cathedral and the cable car. There is nowhere quite like it.
There are some fantastic restaurants in Tromso too that focus on local ingredients, such as Bardus Bistro which we visited. Dining in Tromso can be expensive, but there are lots of cheaper options, for example, a reindeer hot dog from the stand in the city centre, and delicious pizza restaurants.
How would you recommend spending 48 hours in Tromso?
Megan: For me, 48 hours in Tromso felt like the perfect amount, it was long enough to get a taste of the city and fit in a few activities. Within 2 hours of landing at Tromso airport, we were plunging into 2-degree water in the harbour then warming back up in the sauna overlooking the mountains. I’d recommend this to anyone up for the challenge. There is nothing quite like an ice plunge when you’re feeling a bit travel weary.
A short walk, or bus ride will take you over to the Arctic cathedral which overlooks Tromso from across the strait. It’s a beautiful building that stands out dramatically against the rolling mountains, you can see it from a distance in Tromso centre too. It works well to combine this with a trip to the nearby Fjelheisen cable car that takes you up to the top of the surrounding mountains to see the spectacular views over the fjord system and Tromso.
We spent one of our evenings on a northern lights bus chase, with a wonderful guide who knew the best spots for the highest chances of good aurora displays even on a cloudy night. Our guide took us right out to the coast over an hour outside of the city, next to a beautiful church and nothing else around us. Within five minutes the northern lights started to appear. It wasn’t long before these short sightings turned into a full-blown dancing display. It was completely mind blowing! By the time we returned to Tromso you could see the northern lights there too, but being taken out into the middle of nowhere into almost complete darkness felt very exciting and special so definitely worth including in your stay.
For your remaining time in Tromso, I’d recommend mooching around the harbour, the town centre and sampling the local cuisine!
Freya: Like Megan, I would start off by doing the polar plunge at Pust Sauna on the afternoon you arrive. Travelling can be tiring and make you feel groggy, so a sauna and cold-water plunge seriously blows away all the cobwebs and sets you up for a fun-filled couple of days. For the first evening, enjoy a meal at a typical Norwegian restaurant, such as Bardus Bistro, before taking a stroll along the harbour to admire the city lights and the Arctic Cathedral across the water. All while keeping your eyes on the sky!
The following day, after a delicious Norwegian breakfast (lots of salmon, cheeses, cold meats) take a stroll across the large bridge connecting the island, in the direction of the Arctic Cathedral. Make sure to step inside, as well as take the obligatory photos in front of the impressive building. Continue past some lovely houses towards the Fjellheisen Cable Car for the ride to the mountaintop. Here you’ll find the best views of the whole trip! Warm up in the café with a coffee and cake, continuing to take in the views through large panoramic windows.
Wander back to Tromso, or opt to take the bus. Make sure to get some lunch from Knoll og Tott AS – they do the most delicious baguettes (I had reindeer filling), and seafood soup. It’s very popular with both locals and tourists.
If you’re interested in history and life in the arctic, visit the Polar Museum. It focuses on stories of explorers and displays some of their belongings, tools and taxidermy of animals they hunted (perhaps not ideal for vegans), but it really paints the picture of historic life in the Arctic. It’s also well priced at £10 entry fee.
After that, head for coffee and cardamon buns at Vervet bakery with lovely views over the harbour. Find time to wander through the city centre, pick up some souvenirs and maybe do some shopping before heading back to the hotel and getting ready for a northern lights chase. Enjoy an evening of searching for the lights, cosied round a campfire, eating soups and stews!
So, Tromso delivered on its reputation for good northern lights sightings?
Megan: It did. While we didn’t see the northern lights in all their glory in the city centre, largely due to cloudy weather, the fact that we could drive an hour on a bus tour and see the most amazing lights show it’s a great location to see the aurora!
Freya: We heard many stories of people that have seen them in the city, or from the top of the cable car. While we were there it was quite cloudy on the evenings, but by joining a northern lights chase it massively increased our chases of seeing them. The guides knew the best places to take you outside of Tromso, where there were higher chances of cloud clearing. We drove just over an hour north, waited patiently for 40 mins, and then all the clouds cleared, and we had the most amazing displays.
I’ve been lucky enough to see the northern lights in Finland, Sweden and Norway, and the lights near Tromso were the best I’ve seen!
You transited through Narvik, is this a place you’d recommend spending more time?
Freya: If you’re interested in history, Narvik is somewhere I’d recommend spending more time in. The Narvik War Museum which focuses on World War II in the Arctic.
I knew very little about Norway and Sweden’s involvement in the war, so it was fascinating to learn about this. The museum covers everything from the battles that took place, German occupation to the life of Norwegians during the war. I’d recommend spending at least 1.5-2 hours at the museum. Then from the centre you could see the ski runs and gondola that go up the mountain, which might appeal to skiers or hikers in summer.
Megan: We had about 3 hours in Narvik. Like Tromso its small enough a town to get around by foot to explore. We had time for lunch and a visit the war museum, which is very well put together and interesting.
What was the train journey from Narvik to Abisko like, on the scenic Arctic Circle line?
Megan: The train journey was breathtaking. Winding along the mountain side from Narvik you could look down into frozen waters surrounded by dramatic cliffs! Towards Abisko the scenery transformed to a true winter wonderland with little red houses dotted amongst snow covered trees and lakes. It felt like stepping into a postcard! The journey was very easy, with friendly train conductors and a refreshment shop on board, and the train was very cool! Although my highlight was seeing how excited and happy Freya (our rail specialist) was at being on a train journey of a lifetime!
Freya, as a self-confessed rail addict, how did this journey compare to other routes you’ve taken?
Freya: This was the most scenic train journey I’ve ever been on, and I’ve been lucky enough to take some incredible trains through Europe, but no other trains had the dramatic, remote, Arctic landscapes like this one. As you leave Narvik you follow the deep fjord with steep sides and frozen waterfalls travelling down it as it travels further in land. It gets to a certain point and the water in the fjord is frozen over and creates such a striking landscape. The scenery then turns into forested steep valleys and then into rolling snowy hills and through small ski resorts and villages. I spent the whole journey with my eyes glued to the window. Though I did take a couple minutes to go get a cup of English breakfast tea and some chocolate!
The seats were very big and comfortable which made for a nice journey. There was plenty of space for luggage, as most people on board had big bags. Everything ran on time and very smoothy, so I’d give it a solid 10/10 train experience!
What was your first impression of Abisko National Park in Swedish Lapland?
Freya: Being a lover of nature and the outdoors, it was great stepping off the train into the snowy wilderness I’d been watching through the window for the past hour and a half. It felt very remote, and also very scenic surrounded by steep mountains and a large frozen lake close by. The air felt very fresh here, and the temperature much colder than the coastal cities of Tromso and Narvik.
It was great to see people with their cross-country skis that had been out exploring the trails all day. It was also interesting to see the long iron ore freight train travelling from Kiruna go past the way to Narvik, highlighting the importance of the train line and its main use.
Megan: My first impression of was just how truly remote it was! As you get closer to Abisko on the train, you notice more alpine skiers and the sense of adventure does really start to build. Stepping off the train onto the snowy platform, the air feels noticeably cooler, and apart from the Abisko Turiststation building, all you see are mountains and trails stretching in every direction.
Back on the northern lights hunt, did you enjoy visiting the Aurora Sky Station?
Megan: The Aurora Sky Station was a very exciting experience! We opted for the upgraded dinner option at the sky station, and it was the best dinner we had on the entire trip. You sit at a table with fellow travellers, getting to know people from all over the world mostly comparing northern lights encounters and photos. A talented chef prepares the most delicious four-course meal paired with drinks, and we were made to feel very welcome by the lovely staff.
The chairlift up to the Sky Station was definitely an experience in itself in windy, blizzard-like conditions. Though Freya and I are both used to chair lifts as regular skiers, this one did feel a little more adventurous! We had a briefing from a guide about looking for the aurora before heading outside, this was very quickly 180’d due to the wind. After an hour waiting to see if the ‘storm’ would pass so to speak, we headed back down the chairlift to the comfort of our room! Guess what? The storm then passed and the northern lights came out in full. A clear demonstration of the unpredictability of the aurora and how patience is key. Conditions can change, even if it feels hopeless!
Freya: We certainly had quite a unique experience of the Aurora Sky Station with the winds, though they were not enough to close the chair lift. The journey up takes around 20-mins and you’re given thick overalls which keep you very toasty during the ride up.
Walking into the beautiful dining room, you’re given an Arctic style aperitif and seated with the other prospective aurora hunters from, a truly global gathering. The meal was delicious, (some of the best food we had in Scandinavia). Jerusalem artichoke soup, followed by reindeer steak, a selection of Swedish cheeses then panna cotta – each course paired with a different Swedish wine.
After dinner you head out to keep an eye on the lights (well you’re meant to). The high winds and lack of visibility meant it was hard to be outside for long even with the guide making a protective hole in the snow and demonstrating winter skills.
Indoors it was time for a cup of tea and card games. At this point, we thought it was very unlikely that we would see the lights, so we headed back down to the hotel. And when we looked out the window of our room, there were the northern lights! The people who stayed up at the Sky Station said the display had been lovely. We just needed more patience.
Onwards to the Icehotel, what were your impressions of this iconic hotel?
Megan: I had never been to the Icehotel before, and I didn’t really know what to expect but I was completely in awe of the amazing work that has gone into creating such a special place. We visited in early March, everything was still very much frozen, but we had a really good number of daylight hours to explore.
The ice rooms and suites are open to view during the day until 6pm, and admiring the stunning art displays is a full-on activity. It was also amazing to watch the ice being harvested from the frozen river, cutting out huge blocks of ice to be stored and use to build the next hotel is such an amazing operation.
The experience of sleeping in the Ice Room was interesting… I went into it feeling confident of a full night sleep but just didn’t manage more than 30 mins at a time purely because the beds were more solid than I’m used too. It was quite funny running through the corridors in the middle of the night in your thermals to go to the loo though!
Freya: I’ve been lucky enough to visit quite a few of our properties in Finnish Lapland but this was my first time visiting the Icehotel. I was expecting it to have a unique feel, which is enhanced by the fact that it’s the original hotel made of ice – there’s nothing out there quite like it – and I was very excited. However, it still took me by surprise just how incredible it was. I was blown away!
I liked how it is situated in the small village of Jukkasjärvi, so you get to sample a slice of life in the Arctic. It’s a very pretty area surrounded by forests and trails. We walked up to a viewpoint that looked over the whole valley.
The temperature here felt much colder than Tromso and even Abisko. I was glad to have packed my thermals!
Did you have a favourite suite or feature?
Megan: My favourite suite was the library, Arctic Archive, where each book was carved perfectly out of ice – stepping through the doorway really was a “wow” moment! And the ice slides were a great additional feature of this year’s hotel.
Freya: I also loved the Arctic Archive Suite. The wall full of bookshelves carved in ice had the “wow” factor when you walked in. I also love a good book and exploring libraries (though don’t think I could sit in there for too long reading). I thought the bar stools in the ice bar were also very cool. They were just blocks of polished ice and looked exactly like ice cubes, very fitting for a bar!
What activities did you experience at the Icehotel?
Megan: Husky sledding, I absolutely loved! No surprises there, as I’m obsessed with dogs. They were so friendly and loved attention. It was clear they were loved and well looked after. Our dog team were the pack used for competitions, so there was a little kudos there. The sled felt very safe and being pulled across the frozen river in dazzling sunlight was magical. We stopped for a hot drink halfway round the trail and chatted with the guide about the dogs.
We also headed out on a Northern Lights Snowmobiling experience. I was a bit unsure about driving the snowmobile beforehand having never done so before, they feel really safe, and are simple to use, so I settled quickly. We drove for a short distance before stopping at a beautiful setting with the northern lights and stars out behind the trees producing another magical moment. We enjoyed a tasty and warming dinner in the wilderness before continuing the journey across the beautiful snowy landscape.
Food is a feature of the Icehotel, how were the dining options?
Megan: The food was extremely tasty both the a la carte menu at the Icehotel Restaurant and at the Old Homestead, which is a 10-minute walk down the road and offers a more casual dining experience. It felt a bit like cosy pub.
The breakfast was the best of the trip too – lots of different buffet choices both hot and cold.
Freya: We ate at the fantastic Icehotel restaurant, and although we didn’t have their Ice Menu, the food from the a la carte menu was delicious! During this trip I tried to eat local dishes where possible. Here, I chose the following:
For starters: Classic creamy, Swedish skagenröra with prawns, mayonnaise, dill, horseradish, dijon and lemon. Garnished with Kalix löjrom and served on butter fried bread.
For main: Lightly cooked Arctic char fillet with white sauce, roe and roasted fennel. Served with dill-butter potatoes.
We also ate at the Homestead restaurant where I tried moose burger, a first for me and it was delicious! Some other standout dishes were the moose stew while on the evening snowmobile excursion, and reindeer steak in Tromso.
Overall, what was your highlight of the trip?
Freya: My top highlight was husky sledding at the icehotel, it was a lovely sunny day which made it even more magic. Although I’ve visited many of our Arctic resorts, I’d never been husky sledding before, so this was a first for me! Being a dog lover and outdoor lover, naturally this was a highlight of the trip. The dogs were very friendly and playful, we then warmed up next to a log fire in a hut and drank coffee and ate cinnamon buns, before continuing on through the snowy forested trails.
Megan: The two excursions at the Icehotel were my favourite experiences, I loved the husky sledding it was the most perfect blue sunny day and being around such happy animals was beyond amazing. It felt like a real bucket list moment. The snowmobiling was also so much fun, and when we arrived at the yurt for dinner, we were surrounding by tall pine trees and you could see the brightest stars and green hazy northern lights amongst them – it was really stunning!
Feeling inspired?
If Freya and Megan’s adventures have you reaching for your passport (and thermals), get in touch on 01737 214 250 or send an enquiry. Our 7-night Tromso, Abisko and the Icehotel holiday blends three Arctic beauties in one amazing escape. Browse our collection of winter holidays in the Nordics or let our specialists tailor something just for you.