Three sixty-something sisters, a motorhome and an island brimming with wildlife and natural wonders. Cathy Harlow shares her words and pictures from a recent trip to captivating Tasmania. Lying just 500km south of Melbourne, Tasmania is no chip off the Australian mainland… its identity is embedded in vivid landscapes, enticing wilderness and a heritage like no other.
Leaving the capital, Hobart, we hopped on a ferry to Bruny Island – actually two islands linked by a long surf-lashed isthmus, where little penguins come ashore to nest. We spent two nights at Jetty Beach, a tranquil spot in South Bruny National Park. Walking around the Labillardière Peninsula, we discovered a kaleidoscope of bright flowers and dazzling sandy bays, perfect for a dip. Bruny is also a foodie’s favourite, offering an eclectic combination of wine, cheese, whisky and oysters.
A world away from the coast, a winding cloud-forest drive led us through Hartz Mountain National Park. It was a bit of a hike to the summit, but the views over the world heritage wilderness exceeded our expectations. Heading for Lake St Clair in Tassie’s mountainous heart, we visited Greg Duncan’s epic Wall in the Wilderness, a 100m-long, exquisitely sculpted wooden frieze that emotively depicts the historic exploration of Tasmania and its impacts on the land, the people and nature. By the lake shore, we encountered an echidna, a spiny egg-laying mammal, waddling past on an ant hunt.
From the heritage fishing town of Strahan in the heart of the West Coast wilderness, we were joined by boisterous common dolphins on a cruise to the rainforest-clad lower reaches of the wild River Gordon. Landing on Sarah Island, we learned of the hardships and cruelty of life in a penal colony, whose isolation made escape almost impossible.
From the heritage fishing town of Strahan in the heart of the West Coast wilderness, we were joined by boisterous common dolphins on a cruise to the rainforest-clad lower reaches of the wild River Gordon. Landing on Sarah Island, we learned of the hardships and cruelty of life in a penal colony, whose isolation made escape almost impossible.
Iconic Cradle Mountain is deserving of accolades for its scenery and visitor-friendly trails. We left the saw-toothed ridge to the experts and chose the easier moorland walk to Marion’s Lookout and the circular trail around Dove Lake with its wondrous Pandani trees –just beware of sandwich-snatching black currawongs! At night, we sat under a dark southern sky speckled with bright stars.
You’re almost certain to meet wombats at Cradle Mountain, but for kangaroos, wallabies and pademelons we visited Narawntapu National Park on Tasmania’s north coast where these endearing marsupials are most active at dawn and dusk. A bonus were the flocks of noisy black cockatoos and electric-blue superb fairy wrens.
At Deloraine, a characterful riverside town, we stocked up on essentials, browsed the craft shops and sought local advice for the next stage of our journey. It was hard to pick from the chain of pristine beaches at Bay of Fires, each perfectly framed by monolithic granite boulders. At Freycinet National Park we started early for the popular walk to Wineglass Bay. The granite hills glowed pink and we had the white-sand beach and azure sea almost to ourselves.
Our three-week circular tour ended back at Hobart, which really deserved more than the cursory glance we gave it. Whatever you do, don’t miss MONA (the Museum of Old and New Art) – we did, but it’s a great excuse to plan a return trip to this fascinating, often overlooked island.
Tasmania more than satisfied our shared passion for exploring, swimming and nature walks, sprinkled with tastings of local food and wine. And renting a motorhome gave us the freedom to change our plans according to whim and weather. The quiet roads are a dream at the wheel, but take your time and don’t drive between dusk and dawn as the wildlife owns the roads at night!
Feeling inspired?
If you’d like to travel in Cathy’s footsteps, our two-week Tasmanian Discovery self-drive is a great starting point. We personalised Cathy’s trip to include everything on her – and her sisters’ – wish lists and we can do the same for you. Get in touch with our Travel Specialists to tailor an Australia adventure just for you. Call on 01737 214 250 or send an enquiry.