There are ways to be roused from your slumber and then there is the Polar way. A gentle call to action over the ship’s public address system – “Good morning expeditioners”. Already you know this isn’t going to be your average day. Gazing out the window at an untouched Polar landscape confirms you are somewhere very special. Just you and your fellow expeditioners in an (Ant)Arctic paradise.
Small ship expedition cruising, particularly in the remote waters of the Arctic and Antarctic, has structure and rhythm but also unpredictability, spontaneity and adventure. Travelling in some of the most isolated environments on the planet, your ship provides home comforts, but in a place where nature rules, no two days are the same. Sea days have a different cadence to those days sailing through calm straits where the thrilling prospect of shore landings is ever-present. So, what makes a typical day on a polar voyage? Well, you get up and get dressed. After that nothing is typical. It’s extraordinary.
Even the start of the day isn’t typical. At the extremes of the earth and travelling in summer, one aspect of Polar voyaging is the perpetual daylight. Depending on you as an individual, you might sleep with the curtains open, so you can gaze at the mesmerising landscape at any point in the ‘night’. If you prefer a dark room for sleeping, then drawing back the blackout curtains each morning might reveal icebergs, glaciers, ice-strewn channels and snow-covered mountains.
The following diary excerpt from Polar travel specialist, Jo, on an Antarctic voyage in February gives just a taste of what’s possible…
Humpbacks at dawn
What a day! We woke to an announcement that there were humpbacks off the bow of the ship. Breakfast was forgotten, at least temporarily, as everyone rushed to the foredeck to witness a pair of exuberant whales feeding and playing in the water in front of us. As the sun rose above the snow-covered mountains, we also spotted a large group of gentoo penguins a short distance away. Porpoising out of the water, it looked like they could fly!
We were a very chatty and smiling bunch of voyagers as we finally made it to the dining room for the extensive buffet breakfast the patient crew had prepared. The day’s schedule hadn’t even officially started and it was already one for the memory bank.
Morning scenic cruising along the Lemaire Channel
Breakfast done, the ship entered the Lemaire Channel, one of the most strikingly beautiful waterways on the Peninsula. We slowly cruised through surrounded by stunning icebergs of all shapes and sizes and as the channel narrowed to only around 500m the chiselled mountains towered over us.
Gradually, the pack ice started to form around the ship and we spotted crabeater and leopard seals basking on the icefloes under the Antarctic sunshine. They weren’t at all bothered by the curious and colourful creatures gazing at them from a shiny metal object.
Lunchtime refuelling
The sun may have been shining, but having spent much of the morning on deck in the cool Antarctic temperatures, we’d all worked up a hunger, and were ready to take advantage of the hot buffet options available for lunch. It was a relatively early lunch to allow plenty of time to prep for this afternoon’s excursion. A good excuse to eat well too!
Afternoon Zodiacs and icebergs at Pleneau Bay
We arrived at Pleneau Bay with the sun still beating down on us. The sky was a dark shade of blue and cloudless. Strange to think that this is the coldest and windiest place on earth and still we end up getting suntanned faces!
Dropping anchor, we had a moment to soak up the scenery while the Zodiac’s were readied before togging up ready to set off on a Zodiac excursion. And wow, the cruise that followed was certainly one to remember. We cruised slowly amongst the icebergs, some the size of buildings. We could see the icicles hanging off them, and the different hues in the ice, shimmering in the sunlight. The formations were mesmerising, especially in such bright light. There were crabeater and leopard seals chilling out on the bergs and then out of the blue (literally), we heard the blow of a whale and turned around to see a minke whale right near us. Absolutely amazing!
Daily briefing and pre-dinner drinks
Back on board and hot chocolate, cookies and a warm shower later, many of us grabbed a celebratory drink at the bar before heading into the lounge for our daily recap and briefing. It’s satisfying to go over the day’s events and hear from our Expedition Leader what the plans are for tomorrow. Always subject to change of course!
Sunset BBQ on deck
Today had to be the day for the BBQ on deck. The weather had been perfect and what other way to top it off than with an outdoor BBQ, celebrating Brazilian Carnival! The food was sumptuous, as always, and we chinked glasses whilst the sun sunk behind the mountains thereby ending our perfect day in paradise… or did it!
Nightcap with fellow explorers
Days like this you just don’t want to end, so some of us headed back to the bar to compare notes and photographs. Eventually, it’s time to head off to bed for a good night’s sleep, excited for what encounters tomorrow may bring.
Whale watching wake-up
So much for a good night’s sleep. At about 1am, a call comes out that a pod of orca have been sighted just off the starboard side. It’s still light, so I find the lure of seeing more whales impossible to ignore – and standing in my pyjamas in Antarctica, under the midnight sun, I know I made the right decision.
Feeling inspired?
To start planning your own adventure, browse our collection of small-ship Polar voyages or get in touch with Jo or one of our other Polar specialists on 01737 214 250 or send an enquiry. They’ll offer unbiased advice and share their extensive knowledge to help you choose the best route and ship for you.